Kata Robata

When the Cheng family, owners of the Azuma dynasty, closed their Vietnamese outpost Hue to replace it with a more focused modern-Japanese menu, we wondered whether this would just be Azuma #4. Instead they poached the prodigiously talented Manabu "Hori" Horiuchi from Kubo's (Hori-san has worked under Japan's sushi masters and trained at the prestigious Tsuji Culinary Institute) and set up a diverse menu of modern Japanese creations. The sushi menu is split between traditional rolls and new-fangled creations, from the Caribbean roll with lobster tempura and mango to the sexy roll with eel, tuna, fried shrimp and jalapeño to the sublime kobe beef roll, but there's also a variety of noodle dishes and robata offerings. For the best experience, sit front and center at the sushi bar and give your meal over to Hori-san by ordering omakase, Japanese for "it's up to you."

The service can be hit or miss, and the portions run small.